A close-up of the shapely buttocks of a faceless woman. The advertisement for Aubade on a giant poster plastered over four floors of the Galeries Lafayette on boulevard Haussmann in Paris was described as sexist and sparked a lively controversy in mid-December. While the Salon International de la Lingerie is being held in Paris, and Promincor-Lingerie Française (Association for the Promotion of Corsetry Industries) is organizing its big fashion show this Sunday (“Lingerie Rocks!”, broadcast from 8:30 p.m. on the Lingerie website French), how to continue to promote lingerie in the post-MeToo era?
"The cliché of the seductive woman is outdated"
"Today, women want to be beautiful and to wear lingerie for themselves, and not just for seduction “, observes Karine Sfar, general delegate of the Federation of Knitwear, Lingerie and Bathing. An observation made by many brands before MeToo.
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The Simone Pérèle brand reviewed all of its communication in 2016. “We wanted to highlight everyday women, not ambassadors or muses,” explains Stéphanie Pérèle, director of the brand and product division (and granddaughter) of Simone Pérèle. Result ? The Simone Pérèle advertising campaigns highlight female business or kitchen leaders, or even ceramists, called "the Simones". The advertisements now also show still life ornaments and a phrase that illustrates the personality of the "Simone" of the moment. “This helps to remove the cliché of the mannequin, rejoices Stéphanie Pérèle. It's up to us to make women feel good about themselves through the lingerie they wear."
"The cliché of the seductive woman is outdated", she emphasizes again. “It depends on the generations, the millennials feel offended by these images, while for older women, it was not a problem”, tempers Renaud Cambuzat. The Director of Creation and Image of the Chantelle Lingerie group also returns to the controversy following transphobic remarks by the leaders of Victoria's Secret. According to him, the body positivism that wants to see in all women a source of beauty comes up against an economic reality: the American brand remains one of the biggest players on the market.
“A groundswell among new generations”
“Neofeminism is a groundswell among new generations and brands must adapt. Young women want to reclaim their bodies and their way of seducing. Lingerie is a field of self-expression,” he believes. But also a way to assert yourself and gain self-confidence. “The Empreinte brand specializes in what we call generous breasts. Studies have shown that these generous breasts are often experienced, especially by young girls, as a handicap,” explains Philippe Berthaux, CEO of Empreinte Lingerie.
The Empreinte brand, like Simone Pérèle, has a "circle of ambassadors" for everyday women, made up of "women in lingerie and swimwear stores, who are also involved in women's causes", summarizes the CEO. The mission of this circle? “Educate young women on the importance of having good corsetry when you have a generous chest,” explains Philippe Berthaux. Lingerie then becomes a way for these young women to emancipate themselves, they can for example find pleasure in doing physical activity. In short, the lesson of seduction has given way to the lesson of acceptance.
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