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Small apparel manufacturers can achieve economies of scale more easily if they use a factory that already manufactures fabric for several different companies. But it's much harder to find for 25 bra components in dozens of sizes and styles, compared to four or more for t-shirts, Corderio Grant said.
Plus, big chains could afford to cut the price of bras and suffer the financial loss because they compensate with other products, according to Harrington.
It takes expert knowledge to make the bra
Simply put, “bras are labor intensive to produce,” Harrington said. "They're all... handmade by people sitting in front of sewing machines putting these little pieces together."
While bras may use less fabric than a coat, for example, the process of sewing a bra requires more specialized knowledge and machinery.
"The work, the expertise, the time it takes to make, the fact that there are bras that have taken years of research and development to produce... all of that together is what helps at that final cost,” Harrington continued.
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She also pointed out that while people may assume that clothes made in developing countries are substandard, that's not always the case. case for bras. “All of these garment workers are all extremely good at what they do,” she said.
Yet, labor costs in countries like France and the United States are higher, so these bras can be more expensive. But just because a bra is cheaper doesn't mean it's made with sweatshop labor, thanks to economies of scale, Harrington said.
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You pay for the bra fit
Many companies that sell bras at lower prices tend to focus on lowering their end costs. As a result, they "are not able to spend as much time on research and development ... and perfecting it," Harrington said.
"Something you can get with a brand or store that only does bras...and especially if they specialize in that bigger bust, they'll be much more focused and obsessed with the fit" , she explained. “Then you also have this layer of expertise that you get from this little store.”
Greater expertise in a product usually translates to a higher cost. This, along with big box stores that don't carry a wide range of sizes, can also contribute to making larger bras more expensive.
Material matters less than you think
A more expensive material, such as lace, will increase the cost of a bra somewhat, but ultimately the expertise of knowing how to handle it is worth more than the fabric itself, according to Harrington.
Similarly, Cordeiro Grant said people assume that a bra made in Europe will use European material. But increasingly, companies manufacturing in higher-wage countries are using cheaper materials to offset labor costs. And the same goes for companies that ship expensive hardware to places like Asia.
“(The cost) comes down to the total makeup of the toolkit you use,” Cordeiro Grant added. "I don't think it can be tied to one thing anymore."
Tip for getting a good bra at a decent price
Over the past 10 years, there has been an “explosion of new brands and sizes far beyond what is 'there was … at a range of prices,' Harrington said. The next time you enter the wonderful world of bras, try these tips.
Decide what you want. Do you want something sexy and luxurious? Or something that feels good and that you will love to wear every day? How about anything accessible, like Victoria's Secret? Setting your priorities should structure how you shop, Harrington said.
Know that you have options. Many people are “uninformed of the range of options available to them right now,” Harrington said. "A lot of people think they're wearing a size that's impossible to find, and they just don't know what brands fit them."
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Wait for the sales, if you can. Harrington called the $60 to $70 range "the sweet spot" for bras that come in a wide range of sizes and last a while. The best part? When they're on sale, you can get the high-quality fit and engineering for half the price. That's usually a better option than spending $30 on a full-price bra, Harrington added. The wrong side? Waiting for the sales means risking that the brand will not exceed your size.
Read reviews. Looking at the seams and feeling the bra are some of the best ways to tell if you're buying a good one, but reviews are the best thing to do when shopping online. Cordeiro Grant recommended seeking feedback on the adjustability and feel of raw materials.
Many places that sell bras online also offer easy returns, which can be a big help when you're not sure how the bra will fit. Just make sure that when you return the bra it's in pristine condition — no traces of perfume or deodorant — so companies continue to offer those services, Harrington advised.