Optimism at Courrèges, sustainable mode at Chloé

(AFP) - The new stylist of Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice, presented on Wednesday an optimistic collection for "youth who cannot dance", health crisis requires, while Gabriela Hearst made the bet of a sustainable fashion at Chloé.

The Courrèges parade broadcast online, like all the presentations of this week of women's ready-to-wear in Paris, was filmed at the Mines Gare Station in Aubervilliers (Seine-Saint-Denis), a dance space and epicentercounterculture.

A white cube in this industrial wasteland which served as a frame for this collection evokes the obsession for white and the graphic silhouettes of the avant-garde André Courrèges, founder of the.

Minimalist and almost entirely monochrome, in black and white, the first collection of Nicolas Di Felice revisits the great classics of the house such as the trapezoid mini-rods, the theme of circles and variations around vinyl, emblematic matter of the house withoversized collars.

New silhouettes settle in this very portable collection, with high -waisted pants, denim jackets, bombers, caps and thigh boots.

Optimisme chez Courrèges, mode durable chez Chloé

The collection is "a vibrant letter to today's youth, the one that cannot dance", underlines the house in the note that accompanies the presentation.

Nicolas Di Felice was appointed artistic director of Courrèges in September to give new life to the Parisian house, famous in the 1960s for his futuristic style.

The 37 -year -old creator, a graduate of the Cambre in Brussels and passed by Balenciaga, Dior and Louis Vuitton alongside Nicolas Ghesquière, succeeds the German Yolanda Zobel who had left the house in January 2020 after two years of freshly welcomed collections,Despite its commitment to stop plastic production.

- neither viscose, nor polyester-

In her first collection for Chloé, Gabriela Hearst, American designer of Uruguayan origin, defends a "sense of useful at each room" and takes radical environmental commitments.

"A turn to raw materials with low impact allowed the collection to be four times more sustainable than last year," said the house in a press release.

She decided to eliminate synthetic virgin fibers such as polyester or artificial cellulosic fibers (viscose), to obtain recycled, re -employed and biological denim.More than 50% of silk comes from organic farming and more than 80% of cashmere threads for mesh are recycled.The bags are doubled with natural linen.

In the video, the models come out of the LIPP brewery, a legendary place of Saint-Germain-des-Prés where the founder of the house, Gaby Aghion, born 100 years ago today, presented her first collections.

They walk on the cobblestones in relaxed outfits as fringed -striped dresses or a poncho integrated into a down jacket.

Shoes, boots with slippers and moonboots, including moccasins, respond to comfort, while interpreting classic shapes with character as a border of tapered boots in recycled recycled recycled.